Hans Solo in Hydra

How a solo trip to a charming Greek island changed my life.

Island of Hydra, Greece in the Aegean Sea

Island of Hydra, Greece in the Aegean Sea

 

I found myself on the Greek island of Hydra, quite literally.

Much like Hans Solo, leader of the Rebel Alliance, believed in the cause of Galactic Freedom; my solo trip to Hydra made me believe in an innate Free-Spirit way of life.

 

WHY HYDRA?

I chose Hydra for my solo trip because I was looking for somewhere close by (as I was in Europe), safe, beautiful, and inspiring…a quiet place I could clear my head.  Hydra is a car-less, cobblestone, small historical  island 45 mins by boat from Athens Harbor.  It was a place my father called home for many years, and his father as well.  Turns out Hydra has been summoning me my whole life, and even though I have visited about 5 times already, it wasn’t until I went on my own that I finally understood why.

Though I was hesitant about traveling alone… On a whim I threw on a white ensemble and red espadrilles, packed a backpack, and hopped on a ferry ride.  In a blink of an eye I was in a world far away with crystal blue water where donkeys line up to greet you, fisherman with traditional greek captains hats basque their wrinkled skin in the sun, and kids run around with local goat milk gelato ice cream cones.  I took a breathe of fresh island air with a huge smile and I promise you, I have never looked back.

 

WHAT TO DO?

The best part about a solo trip is that you can do whatever you want whenever you want.  How liberating!!  Refrain from making a plan and let your senses carry you away.

The very first night, I took a stroll around the town to get my bearings and have a little peak of the goings on.  With no agenda and no phone distraction, I became a real voyeur - finally becoming an observer of the world around me as if I was strolling through a movie set.  Only this movie was my own!

 
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I woke up, had my Greek yogurt and honey by the pool, and set out with eagerness.  There is one road around Hydra island where you can walk for miles to one charming beach cove after another, with surprises around every turn.  Make it your mission for the day and see what comes your way!

At the start of the road I stopped in the cutest little shop on the port to ask the sweet shop keeper where she recommended for lunch or dinner and she said definitely Omilos!  (This is where my real journey begins..)  

Omilos is a high end seafood restaurant that sits overlooking the water in the port.  Formerly it was a famous yachtclub/nightclub called Lagoudera, where all the mega yachts of rockstars, actors, royalty, and socialites would come to sing, dance and truly live life in old world Greek fashion.  This iconic place used to belong to my father, Theodore Roubanis.  10 years ago the glory days of Lagoudera came to an end, which appears to be one of the biggest Greek tragedies of the time.

I walked by Omilos on the road to the beach and decided to pop in for a dinner reservation.  Wafts of memories came flooding through as I entered the doors.  Seas I used to tread in at 9 years old with my father gallantly rising up from the deep blue with Octopus in one hand and a spear in the other, dancing until way past my curfew with arms freely in the air confidently singing words to songs in languages I didn’t understand.

I glanced at the first table with a big table top book sitting on it which I immediately recognized as the famous Lagoudera historical photo book from the 1960-1970’s - proudly with my fathers name on the cover as the author.  In a room stark white with washed out memories of a place that meant so much to many people, I felt like I was home but other people were living in it.

 
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I continued on the dirt path around the island in wonder of changing tides and new times to come.  Some older men walk towards me with fishing nets and striped shirts as well as teenagers dangling off the cliffs escorted by the latest bluetooth speakers.  An island in transition, moving forward but forever holding on to the past.

I finished the day with a long swim, a soothing massage, and a lavish sunset dinner for one.  There was only one thing missing that felt incomplete… 

Earlier in the trip, I spotted a beautiful traditional evil eye bracelet in the window of a shop that I walked by several times.  After admiring it for days, I thought I would finally go inside and ask about it.  A lovely man named Alkis helped me and explained that his family hand makes each individual evil eye the way they used to in the old days.  I knew it was a rare one and I asked to buy it.  As I was about to pay, Alkis asked me how I ended up in Hydra.  I explained that my father used to live in Hydra and had the yacht club.  Alkis face turned white and he looked like he had seen a ghost.  He said he understood who I was and that my father is a legend on the island.  He told me he could no longer charge me because he owes so much to my father because he is the man who made Hydra what it is today…that all the yachts began coming to Hydra just to see my father and go to Lagoudera.  He respected that my father did it for the love of the island and not just for profit.  Alkis told me that my fathers name should never and will never be forgotten on the island of Hydra., and asked that I accept the gift of the evil eye to protect me and bring me back to Hydra.  I hugged him and walked away on a moonlit cobble stone path, turning back every so often to see him smiling from the window, in bewilderment of what just happened.

This magical moment marked my final homecoming.  I discovered my father in ways I hadn’t known before, I discovered my connection to Hydra to be far more profound that I imagined, and I discovered a free-spirited, passionate, independent woman in myself.

 
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MORAL OF THE STORY

I have always thought an experience doesn’t exist unless it is shared - this trip I proved myself wrong!  Traveling by oneself comes with so many unexpected surprises (good and bad).  They challenge you, delight you, and ultimately bring you closer to yourself…and the best part, at the end of the day, these eye opening experiences are your own!

 

WHERE I DREAMT, FEASTED + SPLURGED!

The Bratsera Hotel - central, extremely charming, and busy (so I would get noticed if  kidnapped!).

Cutest little shop in the port called Ydra Premier with the friendliest girls working inside and a perfectly curated selection of Greek designer palazzo pants, dresses, jewelry, and hats.  A one stop shop!  Next time I plan on arriving without any luggage and buying my whole summer wardrobe there!

Jewelry shop in the port called Keramidas  - ask for Alkis!

Most amazing holistic massage at Armonia - yoga, pilates, massage, mani pedi, etc (winding alleys to get there but well worth the search!)

Omilos Restaurant - formerly known as Lagoudera - amazing seafood and location at the end of the port

 
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TravelAmy Risley